Whereas, Most Christian, High, Excellent, and Powerful Princes,
King and Queen of Spain and of the Islands of the Sea, our
Sovereigns, this present year 1492, after your Highnesses had
terminated the war with the Moors reigning in Europe, the same
having been brought to an end in the great city of Granada, where
on the second day of January, this present year, I saw the royal
banners of your Highnesses planted by force of arms upon the
towers of the Alhambra, which is the fortress of that city, and
saw the Moorish king come out at the gate of the city and kiss
the hands of your Highnesses, and of the Prince my Sovereign; and
in the present month, in consequence of the information which I
had given your Highnesses respecting the countries of India and
of a Prince, called Great Can, which in our language signifies
King of Kings, how, at many times he, and his predecessors had
sent to Rome soliciting instructors who might teach him our holy
faith, and the holy Father had never granted his request, whereby
great numbers of people were lost, believing in idolatry and
doctrines of perdition. Your Highnesses, as Catholic Christians,
and princes who love and promote the holy Christian faith, and
are enemies of the doctrine of Mahomet, and of all idolatry and
heresy, determined to send me, Christopher Columbus, to the
above-mentioned countries of India, to see the said princes,
people, and territories, and to learn their disposition and the
proper method of converting them to our holy faith; and
furthermore directed that I should not proceed by land to the
East, as is customary, but by a Westerly route, in which
direction we have hitherto no certain evidence that any one has
gone. So after having expelled the Jews from your dominions,
your Highnesses, in the same month of January, ordered me to
proceed with a sufficient armament to the said regions of India,
and for that purpose granted me great favors, and ennobled me
that thenceforth I might call myself Don, and be High Admiral of
the Sea, and perpetual Viceroy and Governor in all the islands
and continents which I might discover and acquire, or which may
hereafter he discovered and acquired in the ocean; and that this
dignity should be inherited by my eldest son, and thus descend
from degree to degree forever. Hereupon I left the city of
Granada, on Saturday, the twelfth day of May, 1492, and proceeded
to Palos, a seaport, where I armed three vessels, very fit for
such an enterprise, and having provided myself with abundance of
stores and seamen, I set sail from the port, on Friday, the third
of August, half an hour before sunrise, and steered for the
Canary Islands of your Highnesses which are in the said ocean,
thence to take my departure and proceed till I arrived at the
Indies, and perform the embassy of your Highnesses to the Princes
there, and discharge the orders given me. For this purpose I
determined to keep an account of the voyage, and to write down
punctually every thing we performed or saw from day to day, as
will hereafter appear. Moreover, Sovereign Princes, besides
describing every night the occurrences of the day, and every day
those of the preceding night, I intend to draw up a nautical
chart, which shall contain the several parts of the ocean and
land in their proper situations; and also to compose a book to
represent the whole by picture with latitudes and longitudes, on
all which accounts it behooves me to abstain from my sleep, and
make many trials in navigation, which things will demand much
labor.
Friday, 3 August 1492. Set sail from the bar of Saltes at 8
o'clock, and proceeded with a strong breeze till sunset, sixty
miles or fifteen leagues south, afterwards southwest and south by
west, which is the direction of the Canaries.
Monday, 6 August. The rudder of the caravel Pinta became loose,
being broken or unshipped. It was believed that this happened by
the contrivance of Gomez Rascon and Christopher Quintero, who
were on board the caravel, because they disliked the voyage. The
Admiral says he had found them in an unfavorable disposition
before setting out. He was in much anxiety at not being able to
afford any assistance in this case, but says that it somewhat
quieted his apprehensions to know that Martin Alonzo Pinzon,
Captain of the Pinta, was a man of courage and capacity. Made a
progress, day and night, of twenty-nine leagues.
Thursday, 9 August. The Admiral did not succeed in reaching the
island of Gomera till Sunday night. Martin Alonzo remained a
Grand Canary by command of the Admiral, he being unable to keep
the other vessels company. The Admiral afterwards returned to
Grand Canary, and there with much labor repaired the Pinta, being
assisted by Martin Alonzo and the others; finally they sailed to
Gomera. They saw a great eruption of names from the Peak of
Teneriffe, a lofty mountain. The Pinta, which before had carried
latine sails, they altered and made her square-rigged. Returned
to Gomera, Sunday, 2 September, with the Pinta repaired.
The Admiral says that he was assured by many respectable
Spaniards, inhabitants of the island of Ferro, who were at Gomera
with Dona Inez Peraza, mother of Guillen Peraza, afterwards first
Count of Gomera, that every year they saw land to the west of the
Canaries; and others of Gomera affirmed the same with the like
assurances. The Admiral here says that he remembers, while he
was in Portugal, in 1484, there came a person to the King from
the island of Madeira, soliciting for a vessel to go in quest of
land, which he affirmed he saw every year, and always of the same
appearance. He also says that he remembers the same was said by
the inhabitants of the Azores and described as in a similar
direction, and of the same shape and size. Having taken in food,
water, meat and other provisions, which had been provided by the
men which he left ashore on departing for Grand Canary to repair
the Pinta, the Admiral took his final departure from Gomera with
the three vessels on Thursday, 6 September.
* * * * *
Sunday, 9 September. Sailed this day nineteen leagues, and
determined to count less than the true number, that the crew
might not be dismayed if the voyage should prove long. In the
night sailed one hundred and twenty miles, at the rate of ten
miles an hour, which make thirty leagues. The sailors steered
badly, causing the vessels to fall to leeward toward the
northeast, for which the Admiral reprimanded them repeatedly.
Monday, 10 September. This day and night sailed sixty leagues,
at the rate of ten miles an hour, which are two leagues and a
half. Reckoned only forty-eight leagues, that the men might not
be terrified if they should be long upon the voyage.
Tuesday, 11 September. Steered their course west and sailed
above twenty leagues; saw a large fragment of the mast of a
vessel, apparently of a hundred and twenty tons, but could not
pick it up. In the night sailed about twenty leagues, and
reckoned only sixteen, for the cause above stated.
* * * * *
Friday, 14 September. Steered this day and night west twenty
leagues; reckoned somewhat less. The crew of the Nina stated
that they had seen a grajao, and a tropic bird, or water-wagtail,
which birds never go farther than twenty-five leagues from the
land.
* * * * *
Sunday, 16 September. Sailed day and night, west thirty-nine
leagues, and reckoned only thirty-six. Some clouds arose and it
drizzled. The Admiral here says that from this time they
experienced very pleasant weather, and that the mornings were
most delightful, wanting nothing but the melody of the
nightingales. He compares the weather to that of Andalusia in
April. Here they began to meet with large patches of weeds very
green, and which appeared to have been recently washed away from
the land; on which account they all judged themselves to be near
some island, though not a continent, according to the opinion of
the Admiral, who says, "the continent we shall find further
ahead."
Monday, 17 September. Steered west and sailed, day and night,
above fifty leagues; wrote down only forty-seven; the current
favored them. They saw a great deal of weed which proved to be
rockweed, it came from the west and they met with it very
frequently. They were of opinion that land was near. The pilots
took the sun's amplitude, and found that the needles varied to
the northwest a whole point of the compass; the seamen were
terrified, and dismayed without saying why. The Admiral
discovered the cause, and ordered them to take the amplitude
again the next morning, when they found that the needles were
true; the cause was that the star moved from its place, while the
needles remained stationary. At dawn they saw many more weeds,
apparently river weeds, and among them a live crab, which the
Admiral kept, and says that these are sure signs of land, being
never found eighty leagues out at sea. They found the sea-water
less salt since they left the Canaries, and the air more mild.
They were all very cheerful, and strove which vessel should
outsail the others, and be the first to discover land; they saw
many tunnies, and the crew of the Nina killed one. The Admiral
here says that these signs were from the west, "where I hope that
high God in whose hand is all victory will speedily direct us to
land." This morning he says he saw a white bird called a water-
wagtail, or tropic bird, which does not sleep at sea.
* * * * *
19 September. Continued on, and sailed, day and night, twenty-
five leagues, experiencing a calm. Wrote down twenty-two. This
day at ten o'clock a pelican came on board, and in the evening
another; these birds are not accustomed to go twenty leagues from
land. It drizzled without wind, which is a sure sign of land.
The Admiral was unwilling to remain here, beating about in search
of land, but he held it for certain that there were islands to
the north and south, which in fact was the case and he was
sailing in the midst of them. His wish was to proceed on to the
Indies, having such fair weather, for if it please God, as the
Admiral says, we shall examine these parts upon our return. Here
the pilots found their places upon the chart: the reckoning of
the Nina made her four hundred and forty leagues distant from the
Canaries, that of the Pinta four hundred and twenty, that of the
Admiral four hundred.
Thursday, 20 September. Steered west by north, varying with
alternate changes of the wind and calms; made seven or eight
leagues' progress. Two pelicans came on board, and afterwards
another,--a sign of the neighborhood of land. Saw large
quantities of weeds today, though none was observed yesterday.
Caught a bird similar to a grajao; it was a river and not a
marine bird, with feet like those of a gull. Towards night two
or three land birds came to the ship, singing; they disappeared
before sunrise. Afterwards saw a pelican coming from west-
northwest and flying to the southwest; an evidence of land to the
westward, as these birds sleep on shore, and go to sea in the
morning in search of food, never proceeding twenty leagues from
the land.
Friday, 21 September. Most of the day calm, afterwards a little
wind. Steered their course day and night, sailing less than
thirteen leagues. In the morning found such abundance of weeds
that the ocean seemed to be covered with them; they came from the
west. Saw a pelican; the sea smooth as a river, and the finest
air in the world. Saw a whale, an indication of land, as they
always keep near the coast.
Saturday, 22 September. Steered about west-northwest varying
their course, and making thirty leagues' progress. Saw few
weeds. Some pardelas were seen, and another bird. The Admiral
here says "this headwind was very necessary to me, for my crew
had grown much alarmed, dreading that they never should meet in
these seas with a fair wind to return to Spain." Part of the day
saw no weeds, afterwards great plenty of it.
Sunday, 23 September. Sailed northwest and northwest by north
and at times west nearly twenty-two leagues. Saw a turtle dove,
a pelican, a river bird, and other white fowl;--weeds in
abundance with crabs among them. The sea being smooth and
tranquil, the sailors murmured, saying that they had got into
smooth water, where it would never blow to carry them back to
Spain; but afterwards the sea rose without wind, which astonished
them. The Admiral says on this occasion "the rising of the sea
was very favorable to me, as it happened formerly to Moses when
he led the Jews from Egypt."
* * * * *
Tuesday, 25 September. Very calm this day; afterwards the wind
rose. Continued their course west till night. The Admiral held
a conversation with Martin Alonzo Pinzon, captain of the Pinta,
respecting a chart which the Admiral had sent him three days
before, in which it appears he had marked down certain islands in
that sea; Martin Alonzo was of opinion that they were in their
neighborhood, and the Admiral replied that he thought the same,
but as they had not met with them, it must have been owing to the
currents which had carried them to the northeast and that they
had not made such progress as the pilots stated. The Admiral
directed him to return the chart, when he traced their course
upon it in presence of the pilot and sailors.
At sunset Martin Alonzo called out with great joy from his vessel
that he saw land, and demanded of the Admiral a reward for his
intelligence. The Admiral says, when he heard him declare this,
he fell on his knees and returned thanks to God, and Martin
Alonzo with his crew repeated Gloria in excelsis Deo, as did the
crew of the Admiral. Those on board the Nina ascended the
rigging, and all declared they saw land. The Admiral also
thought it was land, and about twenty-five leagues distant. They
remained all night repeating these affirmations, and the Admiral
ordered their course to be shifted from west to southwest where
the land appeared to lie. They sailed that day four leagues and
a half west and in the night seventeen leagues southwest, in all
twenty-one and a half: told the crew thirteen leagues, making it
a point to keep them from knowing how far they had sailed; in
this manner two reckonings were kept, the shorter one falsified,
and the other being the true account. The sea was very smooth
and many of the sailors went in it to bathe, saw many dories and
other fish.
Wednesday, 26 September. Continued their course west till the
afternoon, then southwest and discovered that what they had taken
for land was nothing but clouds. Sailed, day and night, thirty-
one leagues; reckoned to the crew twenty-four. The sea was like
a river, the air soft and mild.
* * * * *
Sunday, 30 September. Continued their course west and sailed day
and night in calms, fourteen leagues; reckoned eleven.--Four
tropic birds came to the ship, which is a very clear sign of
land, for so many birds of one sort together show that they are
not straying about, having lost themselves. Twice, saw two
pelicans; many weeds. The constellation called Las Gallardias,
which at evening appeared in a westerly direction, was seen in
the northeast the next morning, making no more progress in a
night of nine hours, this was the case every night, as says the
Admiral. At night the needles varied a point towards the
northwest, in the morning they were true, by which it appears
that the polar star moves, like the others, and the needles are
always right.
Monday, 1 October. Continued their course west and sailed
twenty-five leagues; reckoned to the crew twenty. Experienced a
heavy shower. The pilot of the Admiral began to fear this
morning that they were five hundred and seventy-eight leagues
west of the island of Ferro. The short reckoning which the
Admiral showed his crew gave five hundred and eighty-four, but
the true one which he kept to himself was seven hundred and seven
leagues.
* * * * *
Saturday, 6 October. Continued their course west and sailed
forty leagues day and night; reckoned to the crew thirty-three.
This night Martin Alonzo gave it as his opinion that they had
better steer from west to southwest. The Admiral thought from
this that Martin Alonzo did not wish to proceed onward to
Cipango; but he considered it best to keep on his course, as he
should probably reach the land sooner in that direction,
preferring to visit the continent first, and then the islands.
Sunday, 7 October. Continued their course west and sailed twelve
miles an hour, for two hours, then eight miles an hour. Sailed
till an hour after sunrise, twenty-three leagues; reckoned to the
crew eighteen. At sunrise the caravel Nina, who kept ahead on
account of her swiftness in sailing, while all the vessels were
striving to outsail one another, and gain the reward promised by
the King and Queen by first discovering land--hoisted a flag at
her mast head, and fired a lombarda, as a signal that she had
discovered land, for the Admiral had given orders to that effect.
He had also ordered that the ships should keep in close company
at sunrise and sunset, as the air was more favorable at those
times for seeing at a distance. Towards evening seeing nothing
of the land which the Nina had made signals for, and observing
large flocks of birds coming from the North and making for the
southwest, whereby it was rendered probable that they were either
going to land to pass the night, or abandoning the countries of
the north, on account of the approaching winter, he determined to
alter his course, knowing also that the Portuguese had discovered
most of the islands they possessed by attending to the flight of
birds. The Admiral accordingly shifted his course from west to
west-southwest, with a resolution to continue two days ill that
direction. This was done about an hour after sunset. Sailed in
the night nearly five leagues, and twenty-three in the day. In
all twenty-eight.
8 October. Steered west-southwest and sailed day and night
eleven or twelve leagues; at times during the night, fifteen
miles an hour, if the account can be depended upon. Found the
sea like the river at Seville, "thanks to God," says the Admiral.
The air soft as that of Seville in April, and so fragrant that it
was delicious to breathe it. The weeds appeared very fresh.
Many land birds, one of which they took, flying towards the
southwest; also grajaos, ducks, and a pelican were seen.
Tuesday, 9 October. Sailed southwest five leagues, when the wind
changed, and they stood west by north four leagues. Sailed in
the whole day and night, twenty leagues and a half; reckoned to
the crew seventeen. All night heard birds passing.
Wednesday, 10 October. Steered west-southwest and sailed at
times ten miles an hour, at others twelve, and at others, seven;
day and night made fifty-nine leagues' progress; reckoned to the
crew but forty-four. Here the men lost all patience, and
complained of the length of the voyage, but the Admiral
encouraged them in the best manner he could, representing the
profits they were about to acquire, and adding that it was to no
purpose to complain, having come so far, they had nothing to do
but continue on to the Indies, till with the help of our Lord,
they should arrive there.
Thursday, 11 October. Steered west-southwest; and encountered a
heavier sea than they had met with before in the whole voyage.
Saw pardelas and a green rush near the vessel. The crew of the
Pinta saw a cane and a log; they also picked up a stick which
appeared to have been carved with an iron tool, a piece of cane,
a plant which grows on land, and a board. The crew of the Nina
saw other signs of land, and a stalk loaded with rose berries.
These signs encouraged them, and they all grew cheerful. Sailed
this day till sunset, twenty-seven leagues.
After sunset steered their original course west and sailed twelve
miles an hour till two hours after midnight, going ninety miles,
which are twenty-two leagues and a half; and as the Pinta was the
swiftest sailer, and kept ahead of the Admiral, she discovered
land and made the signals which had been ordered. The land was
first seen by a sailor called Rodrigo de Triana, although the
Admiral at ten o'clock that evening standing on the quarter-deck
saw a light, but so small a body that he could not affirm it to
be land; calling to Pero Gutierrez, groom of the King's wardrobe,
he told him he saw a light, and bid him look that way, which he
did and saw it; he did the same to Rodrigo Sanchez of Segovia,whom the King and Queen had sent with the squadron as
comptroller, but he was unable to see it from his situation. The
Admiral again perceived it once or twice, appearing like the
light of a wax candle moving up and down, which some thought an
indication of land. But the Admiral held it for certain that
land was near; for which reason, after they had said the Salve
which the seamen are accustomed to repeat and chant after their
fashion, the Admiral directed them to keep a strict watch upon
the forecastle and look out diligently for land, and to him who
should first discover it he promised a silken jacket, besides the
reward which the King and Queen had offered, which was an annuity
of ten thousand maravedis. At two o'clock in the morning the
land was discovered, at two leagues' distance; they took in sail
and remained under the square-sail lying to till day, which was
Friday, when they found themselves near a small island, one of
the Lucayos, called in the Indian language Guanahani. Presently
they descried people, naked, and the Admiral landed in the boat,
which was armed, along with Martin Alonzo Pinzon, and Vincent
Yanez his brother, captain of the Nina. The Admiral bore the
royal standard, and the two captains each a banner of the Green
Cross, which all the ships had carried; this contained the
initials of the names of the King and Queen each side of the
cross, and a crown over each letter Arrived on shore, they saw
trees very green many streams of water, and diverse sorts of
fruits. The Admiral called upon the two Captains, and the rest
of the crew who landed, as also to Rodrigo de Escovedo notary of
the fleet, and Rodrigo Sanchez, of Segovia, to bear witness that
he before all others took possession (as in fact he did) of that
island for the King and Queen his sovereigns, making the
requisite declarations, which are more at large set down here in
writing. Numbers of the people of the island straightway
collected together. Here follow the precise words of the
Admiral: "As I saw that they were very friendly to us, and
perceived that they could be much more easily converted to our
holy faith by gentle means than by force, I presented them with
some red caps, and strings of beads to wear upon the neck, and
many other trifles of small value, wherewith they were much
delighted, and became wonderfully attached to us. Afterwards
they came swimming to the boats, bringing parrots, balls of
cotton thread, javelins, and many other things which they
exchanged for articles we gave them, such as glass beads, and
hawk's bells; which trade was carried on with the utmost good
will. But they seemed on the whole to me, to be a very poor
people. They all go completely naked, even the women, though I
saw but one girl. All whom I saw were young, not above thirty
years of age, well made, with fine shapes and faces; their hair
short, and coarse like that of a horse's tail, combed toward the
forehead, except a small portion which they suffer to hang down
behind, and never cut. Some paint themselves with black, which
makes them appear like those of the Canaries, neither black nor
white; others with white, others with red, and others with such
colors as they can find. Some paint the face, and some the whole
body; others only the eyes, and others the nose. Weapons they
have none, nor are acquainted with them, for I showed them swords
which they grasped by the blades, and cut themselves through
ignorance. They have no iron, their javelins being without it,
and nothing more than sticks, though some have fish-bones or
other things at the ends. They are all of a good size and
stature, and handsomely formed. I saw some with scars of wounds
upon their bodies, and demanded by signs the of them; they
answered me in the same way, that there came people from the
other islands in the neighborhood who endeavored to make
prisoners of them, and they defended themselves. I thought then,
and still believe, that these were from the continent. It
appears to me, that the people are ingenious, and would be good
servants and I am of opinion that they would very readily become
Christians, as they appear to have no religion. They very
quickly learn such words as are spoken to them. If it please our
Lord, I intend at my return to carry home six of them to your
Highnesses, that they may learn our language. I saw no beasts in
the island, nor any sort of animals except parrots." These are
the words of the Admiral.
Saturday, 13 October. "At daybreak great multitudes of men came
to the shore, all young and of fine shapes, very handsome; their
hair not curled but straight and coarse like horse-hair, and all
with foreheads and heads much broader than any people I had
hitherto seen; their eyes were large and very beautiful; they
were not black, but the color of the inhabitants of the Canaries
which is a very natural circumstance, they being in the same
latitude with the island of Ferro in the Canaries. They were
straight-limbed without exception, and not with prominent bellies
but handsomely shaped. They came to the ship in canoes, made of
a single trunk of a tree, wrought in a wonderful manner
considering the country; some of them large enough to contain
forty or forty-five men, others of different sizes down to those
fitted to hold but a single person. They rowed with an oar like
a baker's peel, and wonderfully swift. If they happen to upset,
they all jump into the sea, and swim till they have righted their
canoe and emptied it with the calabashes they carry with them.
They came loaded with balls of cotton, parrots, javelins, and
other things too numerous to mention; these they exchanged for
whatever we chose to give them. I was very attentive to them,
and strove to learn if they had any gold. Seeing some of them
with little bits of this metal hanging at their noses, I gathered
from them by signs that by going southward or steering round the
island in that direction, there would be found a king who
possessed large vessels of gold, and in great quantities. I
endeavored to procure them to lead the way thither, but found
they were unacquainted with the route. I determined to stay here
till the evening of the next day, and then sail for the
southwest; for according to what I could learn from them, there
was land at the south as well as at the southwest and northwest
and those from the northwest came many times and fought with them
and proceeded on to the southwest in search of gold and precious
stones. This is a large and level island, with trees extremely
flourishing, and streams of water; there is a large lake in the
middle of the island, but no mountains: the whole is completely
covered with verdure and delightful to behold. The natives are
an inoffensive people, and so desirous to possess any thing they
saw with us, that they kept swimming off to the ships with
whatever they could find, and readily bartered for any article we
saw fit to give them in return, even such as broken platters and
fragments of glass. I saw in this manner sixteen balls of cotton
thread which weighed above twenty-five pounds, given for three
Portuguese ceutis. This traffic I forbade, and suffered no one
to take their cotton from them, unless I should order it to be
procured for your Highnesses, if proper quantities could be met
with. It grows in this island, but from my short stay here I
could not satisfy myself fully concerning it; the gold, also,
which they wear in their noses, is found here, but not to lose
time, I am determined to proceed onward and ascertain whether I
can reach Cipango. At night they all went on shore with their
canoes.
Sunday, 14 October. In the morning, I ordered the boats to be
got ready, and coasted along the island toward the north-
northeast to examine that part of it, we having landed first at
the eastern part. Presently we discovered two or three villages,
and the people all came down to the shore, calling out to us, and
giving thanks to God. Some brought us water, and others
victuals: others seeing that I was not disposed to land, plunged
into the sea and swam out to us, and we perceived that they
interrogated us if we had come from heaven. An old man came on
board my boat; the others, both men and women cried with loud
voices--"Come and see the men who have come from heavens. Bring
them victuals and drink." There came many of both sexes, every
one bringing something, giving thanks to God, prostrating
themselves on the earth, and lifting up their hands to heaven.
They called out to us loudly to come to land, but I was
apprehensive on account of a reef of rocks, which surrounds the
whole island, although within there is depth of water and room
sufficient for all the ships of Christendom, with a very narrow
entrance. There are some shoals withinside, but the water is as
smooth as a pond. It was to view these parts that I set out in
the morning, for I wished to give a complete relation to your
Highnesses, as also to find where a fort might be built. I
discovered a tongue of land which appeared like an island though
it was not, but might be cut through and made so in two days; it
contained six houses. I do not, however, see the necessity of
fortifying the place, as the people here are simple in war-like
matters, as your Highnesses will see by those seven which I have
ordered to be taken and carried to Spain in order to learn our
language and return, unless your Highnesses should choose to have
them all transported to Castile, or held captive in the island.
I could conquer the whole of them with fifty men, and govern them
as I pleased. Near the islet I have mentioned were groves of
trees, the most beautiful I have ever seen, with their foliage as
verdant as we see in Castile in April and May. There were also
many streams. After having taken a survey of these parts, I
returned to the ship, and setting sail, discovered such a number
of islands that I knew not which first to visit; the natives whom
I had taken on board informed me by signs that there were so many
of them that they could not be numbered; they repeated the names
of more than a hundred. I determined to steer for the largest,
which is about five leagues from San Salvador; the others were
some at a greater, and some at a less distance from that island.
They are all very level, without mountains, exceedingly fertile
and populous, the inhabitants living at war with one another,
although a simple race, and with delicate bodies.
15 October. Stood off and on during the night, determining not
to come to anchor till morning, fearing to meet with shoals;
continued our course in the morning; and as the island was found
to be six or seven leagues distant, and the tide was against us,
it was noon when we arrived there. I found that part of it
towards San Salvador extending from north to south five leagues,
and the other side which we coasted along, ran from east to west
more than ten leagues. From this island espying a still larger
one to the west, I set sail in that direction and kept on till
night without reaching the western extremity of the island, where
I gave it the name of Santa Maria de la Concepcion. About sunset
we anchored near the cape which terminates the island towards the
west to enquire for gold, for the natives we had taken from San
Salvador told me that the people here wore golden bracelets upon
their arms and legs. I believed pretty confidently that they had
invented this story in order to find means to escape from us,
still I determined to pass none of these islands without taking
possession, because being once taken, it would answer for all
times. We anchored and remained till Tuesday, when at daybreak I
went ashore with the boats armed. The people we found naked like
those of San Salvador, and of the same disposition. They
suffered us to traverse the island, and gave us what we asked of
them. As the wind blew southeast upon the shore where the
vessels lay, I determined not to remain, and set out for the
ship. A large canoe being near the caravel Nina, one of the San
Salvador natives leaped overboard and swam to her; (another had
made his escape the night before,) the canoe being reached by the
fugitive, the natives rowed for the land too swiftly to be
overtaken; having landed, some of my men went ashore in pursuit
of them, when they abandoned the canoe and fled with
precipitation; the canoe which they had left was brought on board
the Nina, where from another quarter had arrived a small canoe
with a single man, who came to barter some cotton; some of the
sailors finding him unwilling to go on board the vessel, jumped
into the sea and took him. I was upon the quarter deck of my
ship, and seeing the whole, sent for him, and gave him a red cap,
put some glass beads upon his arms, and two hawk's bells upon his
ears. I then ordered his canoe to be returned to him, and
despatched him back to land.
I now set sail for the other large island to the west and gave
orders for the canoe which the Nina had in tow to be set adrift.
I had refused to receive the cotton from the native whom I sent
on shore, although he pressed it upon me. I looked out after him
and saw upon his landing that the others all ran to meet him with
much wonder. It appeared to them that we were honest people, and
that the man who had escaped from us had done us some injury, for
which we kept him in custody. It was in order to favor this
notion that I ordered the canoe to be set adrift, and gave the
man the presents above mentioned, that when your Highnesses send
another expedition to these parts it may meet with a friendly
reception. All I gave the man was not worth four maravedis. We
set sail about ten o'clock, with the wind southeast and stood
southerly for the island I mentioned above, which is a very large
one, and where according to the account of the natives on board,
there is much gold, the inhabitants wearing it in bracelets upon
their arms, legs, and necks, as well as in their ears and at
their noses. This island is nine leagues distant from Santa
Maria in a westerly direction. This part of it extends from
northwest, to southeast and appears to be twenty-eight leagues
long, very level, without any mountains, like San Salvador and
Santa Maria, having a good shore and not rocky, except a few
ledges under water, which renders it necessary to anchor at some
distance, although the water is very clear, and the bottom may be
seen. Two shots of a lombarda from the land, the water is so
deep that it cannot be sounded; this is the case in all these
islands. They are all extremely verdant and fertile, with the
air agreeable, and probably contain many things of which I am
ignorant, not inclining to stay here, but visit other islands in
search of gold. And considering the indications of it among the
natives who wear it upon their arms and legs, and having
ascertained that it is the true metal by showing them some pieces
of it which I have with me, I cannot fail, with the help of our
Lord, to find the place which produces it.
Being at sea, about midway between Santa Maria and the large
island, which I name Fernandina, we met a man in a canoe going
from Santa Maria to Fernandina; he had with him a piece of the
bread which the natives make, as big as one's fist, a calabash of
water, a quantity of reddish earth, pulverized and afterwards
kneaded up, and some dried leaves which are in high value among
them, for a quantity of it was brought to me at San Salvador; he
had besides a little basket made after their fashion, containing
some glass beads, and two blancas by all which I knew he had come
from San Salvador, and had passed from thence to Santa Maria. He
came to the ship and I caused him to be taken on board, as he
requested it; we took his canoe also on board and took care of
his things. I ordered him to be presented with bread and honey,
and drink, and shall carry him to Fernandina and give him his
property, that he may carry a good report of us, so that if it
please our Lord when your Highnesses shall send again to these
regions, those who arrive here may receive honor, and procure
what the natives may be found to possess.
Tuesday, 16 October. Set sail from Santa Maria about noon, for
Fernandina which appeared very large in the west; sailed all the
day with calms, and could not arrive soon enough to view the
shore and select a good anchorage, for great care must be taken
in this particular, lest the anchors be lost. Beat up and down
all night, and in the morning arrived at a village and anchored.
This was the place to which the man whom we had picked up at sea
had gone, when we set him on shore. He had given such a
favorable account of us, that all night there were great numbers
of canoes coming off to us, who brought us water and other
things. I ordered each man to be presented with something, as
strings of ten or a dozen glass beads apiece, and thongs of
leather, all which they estimated highly; those which came on
board I directed should be fed with molasses. At three o'clock,
I sent the boat on shore for water; the natives with great good
will directed the men where to find it, assisted them in carrying
the casks full of it to the boat, and seemed to take great
pleasure in serving us. This is a very large island, and I have
resolved to coast it about, for as I understand, in, or near the
island, there is a mine of gold. It is eight leagues west of
Santa Maria, and the cape where we have arrived, and all this
coast extends from north-northwest to south-southeast. I have
seen twenty leagues of it, but not the end. Now, writing this, I
set sail with a southerly wind to circumnavigate the island, and
search till we can find Samoet, which is the island or city where
the gold is, according to the account of those who come on board
the ship, to which the relation of those of San Salvador and
Santa Maria corresponds. These people are similar to those of
the islands just mentioned, and have the same language and
customs; with the exception that they appear somewhat more
civilized, showing themselves more subtle in their dealings with
us, bartering their cotton and other articles with more profit
than the others had experienced. Here we saw cotton cloth, and
perceived the people more decent, the women wearing a slight
covering of cotton over the nudities. The island is verdant,
level and fertile to a high degree; and I doubt not that grain is
sowed and reaped the whole year round, as well as all other
productions of the place. I saw many trees, very dissimilar to
those of our country, and many of them had branches of different
sorts upon the same trunk; and such a diversity was among them
that it was the greatest wonder in the world to behold. Thus,
for instance, one branch of a tree bore leaves like those of a
cane, another branch of the same tree, leaves similar to those of
the lentisk. In this manner a single tree bears five or six
different kinds. Nor is this done by grafting, for that is a
work of art, whereas these trees grow wild, and the natives take
no care about them. They have no religion, and I believe that
they would very readily become Christians, as they have a good
understanding. Here the fish are so dissimilar to ours that it
is wonderful. Some are shaped like dories, of the finest hues in
the world, blue, yellow, red, and every other color, some
variegated with a thousand different tints, so beautiful that no
one on beholding them could fail to express the highest wonder
and admiration. Here are also whales. Beasts, we saw none, nor
any creatures on land save parrots and lizards, but a boy told me
he saw a large snake. No sheep nor goats were seen, and although
our stay here has been short, it being now noon, yet were there
any, I could hardly have failed of seeing them. The
circumnavigation of the island I shall describe afterward.
Wednesday, 17 October. At noon set sail from the village where
we had anchored and watered. Kept on our course to sail round
the island; the wind southwest and south. My intention was to
follow the coast of the island to the southeast as it runs in
that direction, being informed by the Indians I have on board,
besides another whom I met with here, that in such a course I
should meet with the island which they call Samoet, where gold is
found. I was further informed by Martin Alonzo Pinzon, captain
of the Pinta, on board of which I had sent three of the Indians,
that he had been assured by one of them I might sail round the
island much sooner by the northwest. Seeing that the wind would
not enable me to proceed in the direction I first contemplated,
and finding it favorable for the one thus recommended me, I
steered to the northwest and arriving at the extremity of the
island at two leagues' distance, I discovered a remarkable haven
with two entrances, formed by an island at its mouth, both very
narrow, the inside capacious enough for a hundred ships, were
there sufficient depth of water. I thought it advisable to
examine it, and therefore anchored outside, and went with the
boats to sound it, but found the water shallow. As I had first
imagined it to be the mouth of a river, I had directed the casks
to be carried ashore for water, which being done we discovered
eight or ten men who straightway came up to us, and directed us
to a village in the neighborhood; I accordingly dispatched the
crews thither in quest of water, part of them armed, and the rest
with the casks, and the place being at some distance it detained
me here a couple of hours. In the meantime I strayed about among
the groves, which present the most enchanting sight ever
witnessed, a degree of verdure prevailing like that of May in
Andalusia, the trees as different from those of our country as
day is from night, and the same may be said of the fruit, the
weeds, the stones and everything else. A few of the trees,
however, seemed to be of a species similar to some that are to be
found in Castile, though still with a great dissimilarity, but
the others so unlike, that it is impossible to find any
resemblance in them to those of our land. The natives we found
like those already described, as to personal appearance and
manners, and naked like the rest. Whatever they possessed, they
bartered for what we chose to give them. I saw a boy of the crew
purchasing javelins of them with bits of platters and broken
glass. Those who went for water informed me that they had
entered their houses and found them very clean and neat, with
beds and coverings of cotton nets. Their houses are all built in
the shape of tents, with very high chimneys. None of the
villages which I saw contained more than twelve or fifteen of
them. Here it was remarked that the married women wore cotton
breeches, but the younger females were without them, except a few
who were as old as eighteen years. Dogs were seen of a large and
small size, and one of the men had hanging at his nose a piece of
gold half as big as a castellailo, with letters upon it. I
endeavored to purchase it of them in order to ascertain what sort
of money it was but they refused to part with it. Having taken
our water on board, I set sail and proceeded northwest till I had
surveyed the coast to the point where it begins to run from eastto west. Here the Indians gave me to understand that this island
was smaller than that of Samoet, and that I had better return in
order to reach it the sooner. The wind died away, and then
sprang up from the west-northwest which was contrary to the
course we were pursuing, we therefore hove about and steered
various courses through the night from east to south standing off
from the land, the weather being cloudy and thick. It rained
violently from midnight till near day, and the sky still remains
clouded; we remain off the southeast part of the island, where I
expect to anchor and stay till the weather grows clear, when I
shall steer for the other islands I am in quest of. Every day
that I have been in these Indies it has rained more or less. I
assure your Highnesses that these lands are the most fertile,
temperate, level and beautiful countries in the world.
Thursday, 18 October. As soon as the sky grew clear, we set sail
and went as far round the island as we could, anchoring when we
found it inconvenient to proceed. I did not, however, land. In
the morning set sail again.
Friday, 19 October. In the morning we got under weigh, and I
ordered the Pinta to steer east and southeast and the Nina south-
southeast; proceeding myself to the southeast the other vessels I
directed to keep on the courses prescribed till noon, and then to
rejoin me. Within three hours we descried an island to the east
toward which we directed our course, and arrived all three,
before noon, at the northern extremity, where a rocky islet and
reef extend toward the North, with another between them and the
main island. The Indians on board the ships called this island
Saomete. I named it Isabela. It lies westerly from the island
of Fernandina, and the coast extends from the islet twelve
leagues, west, to a cape which I called Cabo Hermoso, it being a
beautiful, round headland with a bold shore free from shoals.
Part of the shore is rocky, but the rest of it, like most of the
coast here, a sandy beach. Here we anchored till morning. This
island is the most beautiful that I have yet seen, the trees in
great number, flourishing and lofty; the land is higher than the
other islands, and exhibits an eminence, which though it cannot
be called a mountain, yet adds a beauty to its appearance, and
gives an indication of streams of water in the interior. From
this part toward the northeast is an extensive bay with many
large and thick groves. I wished to anchor there, and land, that
I might examine those delightful regions, but found the coast
shoal, without a possibility of casting anchor except at a
distance from the shore. The wind being favorable, I came to the
Cape, which I named Hermoso, where I anchored today. This is so
beautiful a place, as well as the neighboring regions, that I
know not in which course to proceed first; my eyes are never
tired with viewing such delightful verdure, and of a species so
new and dissimilar to that of our country, and I have no doubt
there are trees and herbs here which would be of great value in
Spain, as dyeing materials, medicine, spicery, etc., but I am
mortified that I have no acquaintance with them. Upon our
arrival here we experienced the most sweet and delightful odor
from the flowers or trees of the island. Tomorrow morning before
we depart, I intend to land and see what can be found in the
neighborhood. Here is no village, but farther within the island
is one, where our Indians inform us we shall find the king, and
that he has much gold. I shall penetrate so far as to reach the
village and see or speak with the king, who, as they tell us,
governs all these islands, and goes dressed, with a great deal of
gold about him. I do not, however, give much credit to these
accounts, as I understand the natives but imperfectly, and
perceive them to be so poor that a trifling quantity of gold
appears to them a great amount. This island appears to me to be
a separate one from that of Saomete, and I even think there may
be others between them. I am not solicitous to examine
particularly everything here, which indeed could not be done in
fifty years, because my desire is to make all possible
discoveries, and return to your Highnesses, if it please our
Lord, in April. But in truth, should I meet with gold or spices
in great quantity, I shall remain till I collect as much as
possible, and for this purpose I am proceeding solely in quest of
them.
Saturday, 20 October. At sunrise we weighed anchor, and stood to
the northeast and east along the south side of this island, which
I named Isabela, and the cape where we anchored, Cabo de la
Laguna; in this direction I expected from the account of our
Indians to find the capital and king of the island. I found the
coast very shallow, and offering every obstacle to our
navigation, and perceiving that our course this way must be very
circuitous, I determined to return to the westward. The wind
failed us, and we were unable to get near the shore before night;
and as it is very dangerous anchoring here in the dark, when it
is impossible to discern among so many shoals and reefs whether
the ground be suitable, I stood off and on all night. The other
vessels came to anchor, having reached the shore in season. As
was customary among us, they made signals to me to stand in and
anchor, but I determined to remain at sea.
Sunday, 21 October. At 10 o'clock, we arrived at a cape of the
island, and anchored, the other vessels in company. After having
dispatched a meal, I went ashore, and found no habitation save a
single house, and that without an occupant; we had no doubt that
the people had fled in terror at our approach, as the house was
completely furnished. I suffered nothing to be touched, and went
with my captains and some of the crew to view the country. This
island even exceeds the others in beauty and fertility. Groves
of lofty and flourishing trees are abundant, as also large lakes,
surrounded and overhung by the foliage, in a most enchanting
manner. Everything looked as green as in April in Andalusia.
The melody of the birds was so exquisite that one was never
willing to part from the spot, and the flocks of parrots obscured
the heavens. The diversity in the appearance of the feathered
tribe from those of our country is extremely curious. A thousand
different sorts of trees, with their fruit were to be met with,
and of a wonderfully delicious odor. It was a great affliction
to me to be ignorant of their natures, for I am very certain they
are all valuable; specimens of them and of the plants I have
preserved. Going round one of these lakes, I saw a snake, which
we killed, and I have kept the skin for your Highnesses; upon
being discovered he took to the water, whither we followed him,
as it was not deep, and dispatched him with our lances; he was
seven spans in length; I think there are many more such about
here. I discovered also the aloe tree, and am determined to take
on board the ship tomorrow, ten quintals of it, as I am told it
is valuable. While we were in search of some good water, we came
upon a village of the natives about half a league from the place
where the ships lay; the inhabitants on discovering us abandoned
their houses, and took to flight, carrying of their goods to the
mountain. I ordered that nothing which they had left should be
taken, not even the value of a pin. Presently we saw several of
the natives advancing towards our party, and one of them came up
to us, to whom we gave some hawk's bells and glass beads, with
which he was delighted. We asked him in return, for water, and
after I had gone on board the ship, the natives came down to the
shore with their calabashes full, and showed great pleasure in
presenting us with it. I ordered more glass beads to be given
them, and they promised to return the next day. It is my wish to
fill all the water casks of the ships at this place, which being
executed, I shall depart immediately, if the weather serve, and
sail round the island, till I succeed in meeting with the king,
in order to see if I can acquire any of the gold, which I hear he
possesses. Afterwards I shall set sail for another very large
island which I believe to be Cipango, according to the
indications I receive from the Indians on board. They call the
Island Colba, and say there are many large ships, and sailors
there. This other island they name Bosio, and inform me that it
is very large; the others which lie in our course, I shall
examine on the passage, and according as I find gold or spices in
abundance, I shall determine what to do; at all events I am
determined to proceed on to the continent, and visit the city of
Guisay, where I shall deliver the letters of your Highnesses to
the Great Can, and demand an answer, with which I shall return.