At about 11 P.M., in the fading light we approach scenic Üüreg Nuur, surrounded by permanently snowcapped mountains.  Surely this is one of the most beautiful places on earth.  We had it all to ourselves, too, as there is not a single ger as far and wide as the eye can see.  The wind whipped our tents the whole night long, and in the morning fresh snow lay low on the hills. But I slept snugly and was up to see the dawn and to explore the land for hours before any of my companions awoke.